St Jean Pied de Port

Have you ever seen Beauty and the Beast? St Jean Pied de Port puts me in mind of the town Belle lives in at the beginning.

"Little town, it's a quiet village. Everyday, like the one before." Don't pretend you don't know the rest!

It's all boulangeries and cobbled streets here. It's tiny, so must be overrun with Camino pilgrims in the summer, but I all but had the quaint little streets to myself as I went out for a bite to eat last night.

My first stop was the official pilgrim office, which turned out to be a lovely chap called Didier behind a desk in a tiny little place that doubled up as a dining room.

I was asked to write my name down on a sheet - I noticed that of six names written, I was the only woman, #girlpower.

Didier then gave me my pilgrim passport - this is everyone's prized possession as you collect a stamp at each albergue (hostel) you stay at on the way. It's like a Nando's card but with a Cathedral at the end instead of half a chicken.

He told me that the traditional Napoleon route which goes up and over the Pyrenees was closed for safety reasons - I have to admit I was slightly relieved.

Over the weekend I was at my parents' house checking the weather for my first day.

Me: <Reading>: Tuesday - Showers. Risk of avalanche.

Mum: 'What does the weather say?'

Me: 'Showers'.

So, I'm going the Valcarlos route, known as the 'low road' - I've just checked and the 'low' road peaks at 3,500ft. I think they need to rebadge it.

On my way out of the office and towards my BnB, I met a Portugeuse man who showed me his Pilgrim passport which had stamps from London! He looked very 'weathered' and was missing a tooth (I can only hope this happened pre-Camino).

He directed me to the pilgrim albergue but when I told him I was staying in a BnB, he looked disappointed in me - I felt like a fraud and a fair weather pilgrim.

Which I so am by the way, I'm even setting off a day later than planned to guarantee I get fair weather!

So last night was my final taste of solo living for a while, I move into the albergue today and it's a communal existence from here on out.

I'm sure I'll get used to hanging my pants up to dry in front of strangers at some point, I'll let you know when.