Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas

'Damn, you're getting fast, girl' - praise indeed from Don, who is the only one us even capable of trying to keep up with Martine.

I arrived at the albergue alone, as I was feeling strong and decided forge ahead on my own that day with fewer breaks (I left the Manon and Ines in a cafe ordering hamburgers at 9.30am in the morning - those girls are an inspiration to us all).

We were lucky to be staying with a true 'hospitalerio' - Jane, who has been running the hostel for more than 20 years.

Jane was incredible - as soon as I sat down, she brought me another chair to put my feet up on and made a thorough inspection of my feet.

Afterwards, she went rustling about in the garden and came back with a hack-saw, saying it was the only solution!

Along with our resident Italian, Davide, we had two more with us this evening, Andrea and Francesco. Francesco suggested cooking a traditional Italian meal for everyone and we all hastily agreed.

Ingredients were bought and pans fired up, but I'm not sure what happened next as when I went into the kitchen to see if I could be helpful, Abdal and Davide were alone and Francesco had apparently absconded for a nap - so much for big gestures!

Thank goodness that our two boys managed to stay awake.

With nothing to be chopped or stirred, I went back into the garden where Jane was about to tackle the blisters of a lovely Spanish woman called Eva.

Jane's set up was very professional - she had a little foot rest for your feet, iodine, packets of sterilized needles, the lot.

Eva's blisters were huge, and Jane informed her she had blisters under her blisters - no-one wants to hear this. As Jane came at her with a needle, I offered Eva my hand (with memories of Abdal doing the same for me in Burgos).

As Jane went to work, I honestly don't know who was squeezing harder. I think it may have been me. Poor Eva!

Later, the little footrest was still there, so there really was no better time to start playing beauty parlours.

Janne was my first customer and I painted her toenails. Next, Janne did me, then I did Manon. I did Ines' finger nails on the stairs a little later, and even Rick got in on the act, painting his little toenail.

When your feet look like a war zone, and the only pampering you get is splashing cold water on your face every morning, little treats, like having someone paint your nails, really mean a lot.

We ate an incredible dinner that night (or technically, I ate two as there was enough for seconds) - all thanks to Davide and Abdal, I suppose we can credit Francesco for the inspiration if nothing else.

There's nothing like going to bed with freshly painted toe nails and a full tummy :-)